Marque

Review

Is Mark Best Sydney’s very own Willy Wonka and the ultra-chic, recently remodelled Marque his factory of culinary creativity? Even Best’s band of loyal workers dishes out advice with a wink. The cheeky sommelier, Peter Healy, convinces diners to order Austrian red wine from the European-focused, eclectic wine list. Now that’s pure magic. Some might find Best’s take on contemporary French a little wacky, but it’s mostly pure wizardry. Contemplate, for example, a “risotto” of calamari – tiny grains of calamari with prawn foam; or a dessert of caramelised tomato stuffed with 12 flavours reminiscent of Christmas pudding. Roast Muscovy duck is more old school, sitting in a pond of rich jus, while fruit salad with honey and yoghurt is anything but, arriving “deconstructed” – the seasonal fruit blasted with liquid nitrogen and dusted with honey powder. Best is an innovative master intent on pushing the envelope. And Sydney’s all the richer for it.

Awards

Chef of the Year

Hours

Hours Lunch Fri noon–2.30pm; Dinner Mon–Sat 6.30–10pm; bookings essential

Bill

Bill Degustation menu $145pp; 3-course a la carte menu $95pp; 2-course a la carte lunch menu $75pp, prix fixe 3-course lunch menu $45pp

Wine

Wine Lots of unusual labels and varieties, and a European bent; 18 by the glass; BYO one bottle per table only (corkage $35 a bottle); plus choice aperitifs

Cards

AE DC V MC

Chefs

Mark Best & Pasi Petanen

Owners

Mark & Valerie Best

Seats

50; private room; wheelchair access

Website

www.marquerestaurant.com.au