Rockpool Bar and Grill

Review

The soaring, green marble art deco room is every bit as beautiful and breathtaking as the wine list, which boasts Sydney’s most expensive drop (a ’45 Romanee-Conti for $90 000, with a little change). The king of modern Sydney dining, Neil Perry, has brought his Melbourne steakhouse home in a final dramatic statement of his philosophy. The beef is aged on site, then cooked on the wood grill, which fills the cleverly lit open kitchen with smoky atmosphere. The extensive menu offers childhood reassurance in macaroni and cheese, creamed corn and succulent rotisserie chook with Tuscan bread salad. It’s all about keeping great produce simple to speak for itself, from a hearty rubble of clams with serrano ham, flageolet beans and white wine, to a rich duck ragu with slightly flabby pappardelle noodles. From 11 steaks, listed by provenance, Cape Grim grass-fed on-the-bone rib-eye wins for both taste and price. Apple galette with brown butter ice-cream is the pleasure a dessert should promise.

Awards

Best New Restaurant

Hours

Lunch Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Dinner Mon–Sat 6–11pm

Bill

E $15–$30 M $26–$110 D $6–$19; 15% surcharge on public holidays

Wine

Wine An unbelievable array of the world’s great wines, in varying vintages; 25 by the glass

Cards

AE DC V MC

Chefs

Neil Perry & Khan Danis

Owners

Neil Perry, Trish Richards & David Doyle

Seats

250; private rooms; wheelchair access; bar

Website

www.rockpool.com.au