Forty One

Review

On a clear evening, you’ll see to the Heads and beyond through Forty One’s mighty glass windows. Even on a stormy night it might be difficult to turn away from the lightning show to focus on the menu, a Europeanaccented document that also speaks the culinary language of our age. Jamon Iberico might share a plate with divine duck liver parfait, while marinated kingfish and a fat oyster form a striking team with Vietnamese-dressed green tea noodles. A salty blue swimmer crab croquette is boldly matched with grilled chorizo and Jerusalem artichoke. But there were some missteps, including a curious calamari “schnitzel” with an anchovy and truffle-infused green bean salad; and we longed for more assertiveness in pasta parcels of Yamba prawn meat claiming Thai influence in a “spiced broth” foam. Deferential service, the complimentary amuse bouche, and a blue-hued, five-star-hotel decor might make you nostalgic for the headier days of generous corporate expense accounts. Yet that view remains as timeless as it is priceless.

Hours

Lunch Tues–Fri noon–2.30pm; Dinner Mon–Sat 6–9.30pm; bookings essential

Bill

Lunch 2 courses $65pp, 3 courses $80, 4 courses $95; Dinner 8 courses $150pp

Wine

Wine An impressive, lengthy list, take the plunge rather than rely on set matches; 14 by the glass

Cards

AE DC V MC

Chefs

Rainer Korobacz

Owners

Dietmar Sawyere

Seats

135; private rooms; wheelchair access; bar Child friendly Kids’ menu; highchairs; drawing materials

Website

www.forty-one.com.au